Discover Syria & LebanonSmile your thanks when the elderly caretaker of a Damascus house opens the door just for youTest-drive your Arabic as you fly through the Syrian desert in a 1960s Dodge taxiWhat conflict? Find your peace hiking amid waterfalls, hermitages and monasteries in Lebanon's gorgeous Qadisha ValleyLather up with olive oil soap from Aleppo's famous souq - and learn how to pick one fit for a queenIn This Guide: Three authors, 140 days of on-the-road research, one international conflict, countless invitations to teaAsk the archaeologist: all your questions on Syria's stunning ruins answered by a specialistGet the local lowdown: special color chapter featuring travel tips from Syrians and Lebanese